Having made our ‘long journey’ and arrived safely in
Tarbert, what are we going to do? Well, the
main reason for coming to the west coast of Scotland was to explore this
stunning coastline and the legendary ‘best cruising grounds in the UK’. Since buying Wendy Woo we have met many
people who have waxed lyrical about how amazing this area of the UK is and we
have made a start at experiencing this for ourselves.
Of course, weather always seems to challenge us. It has been particularly rainy and the winds
have rarely eased for long enough for us cautious sailors to get out on
extended cruises. However, we have
explored a little of the area and found our new favourite anchorage, as well as
experiencing a near disaster.
Our first trip out of the harbour took in the Kyles of Bute, the Cumbraes and Inchmarnock. The Kyles of Bute offer one of the most sheltered and dramatic stretches of water we have had the pleasure of exploring. At the top of the island of Bute, where the West Kyle meets the East Kyle is a narrow stretch of water where the Burnt Isles sit. We anchored here for our first night in glorious sunshine and flat calm water. Stepping ashore on an island (in this case Bute) evokes a feeling of adventure and expedition.
I know, the Isle of Bute has a population of around six and a half thousand people and regular ferry services from the mainland, but you can always imagine that an island is deserted. We inflated our tender and rowed ashore for a short walk to stretch our legs. It really did feel deserted, at least until we rounded a headland and saw the ferry terminal and cars queueing to cross, and so we retraced our steps and re-established the illusion of solitude. Back on the boat we sat and watched a couple of seals hunting for supper and cormorants regularly surfacing after long dives. Cormorants always make me smile as, when they surface, they give a quick shake of the head and then look all pleased with themselves before gracefully diving back down. It’s also fascinating (in a slightly gruesome way) to watch them wrestle with a fish and then swallow it whole.The following morning was calm and still with glorious sunshine. We watched as a deer came down to the water’s edge to nibble at some low-lying branches and we felt the utter brilliance of nature in its many guises. Unfortunately our serenity was about to be broken as we got ready to move on. As normal, when we raise our anchor I am at the bow operating the winch whilst Bridget is at the helm ready to move the boat away once we have the anchor clear. With the engine running I started pulling in the thirty metres of chain. The action of pulling in the chain meant that the boat started to pick up forward momentum and was in danger of overriding the anchor chain. I called to Bridget to put the boat into reverse to stop the forward motion and, almost immediately, there was a loud bang and the engine cut out. My first thought was that we had struck a submerged rock (even though I knew there were none close by) and I rushed back to the wheelhouse to see what had happened. Panic was setting in. I looked around and couldn’t see anything obvious so I restarted the engine. However, as soon as I put it into gear there was a loud banging noise and vibration so I immediately shut it down again. Only then did it dawn on me that we had tied the tender to the stern of the boat and when I looked over the side I could see that the rope had got itself tangled around the propeller and was pulling the tender under water.
Okay, so now what? The first thing was to check that we weren’t drifting towards the shore. Thankfully the anchor was still dug in to the seabed so we were alright in that respect. I then went down below to check that there was no water coming in through the stern tube. Again, that looked okay. So I was left with the problem of freeing the rope from the propeller. An impromptu swim was the only option. I stripped off to my underwear, tied a rope around my waist to ensure I didn’t drift away from the boat, grabbed a knife and jumped in to the water. That woke me up! First I cut the tender free so that it could resurface. I then clung on to the rudder and, at full stretch, used my feet and free arm to untangle the rope by feel alone. After a lot of grunting and swearing it finally came free and I hauled myself in to the tender (not a pretty sight) and then back on the boat. Another check of the rudder tube showed no sign of water ingress so we restarted the engine and, whilst I was watching the prop shaft and rudder tube, Bridget put the boat into gear. Thankfully all looked and sounded fine, so the disaster had been averted.
It was only then that hysterical laughter set in as Bridget lamented not having her camera to hand to film me trying to get back in to the tender looking like a beached seal in my boxer shorts. Okay, so the video is not of me, but you get the idea!
The lesson learned? We have always followed the mantra of “Stow, don’t Tow” when it comes to our tender but, because we wanted to go ashore at each anchorage we planned to use over the coming days we had decided to tie it to the stern. Of course, because that’s not ‘normal’ for us we completely forgot it was there that morning. Needless to say, we are much more aware of the potential for entanglement, especially if the rope is too long.
We finished retrieving the anchor and made our way down the East Kyle, past Kames Bay and Rothesay, and across to White Bay on Great Cumbrae to anchor for our second night. There was one other boat in the anchorage when we arrived but they left shortly afterwards. A seal took great interest in us as we rowed ashore, probably guarding its territory, and we walked around the headland for a bit. Great Cumbrae seems to be a popular island for people to ride bicycles and do some ‘wild camping’ on the foreshore. We could hear the whoops and laughter of a group having a beach party and we thought that we would have a disturbed night. However, as the sun went down they became silent. Perhaps they were exhausted after their cycling journey.
The following morning we raised the anchor (uneventfully) and headed south through the Largs Channel, between the Cumbraes, around the southern tip of Bute and up into Inchmarnock Sound. We anchored off the island of Inchmarnock, an uninhabited island that used to have a monastery and three farms. The farms themselves are now abandoned but the island is used for grazing organic cattle. There are remains of a Bronze Age settlement on the island including the remains of a female skeleton, known as the Queen of the Inch. We wanted to explore the interior of the island but the hedgerows surrounding the beach were impenetrable so we walked along the foreshore until we came across a large colony of seals. We realised that we needed to leave them in peace so we turned around and headed back to the boat. It’s their home after all, not our land to explore. We had a very peaceful night with flat calm water. That’s three in a row, which is completely different to our anchoring experiences in other parts of the UK. Long may they continue!
We enjoyed a good sail back to Tarbert making five knots under headsail and mizzen sail alone. It’s great to be able to make decent headway without having to worry about tacking or watching the sails collapse with a lack of wind. Of course, we’re far too demanding when it comes to weather. All we ask is for the perfect amount of wind, from exactly the right direction, blue skies, sunshine and calm water. Is that too much to ask?